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Peaceful Protest | A Night in England’s Right to Roam Enclave

Will Renwick practices his right to sleep under the stars, a year on from a High Court ruling that could easily have tipped the other way

I’m the only person here and probably the only person around for miles, I think to myself as I sit in my tent with the door rolled back so I can take in the view. Overhead, a skylark provides that familiar soundtrack to a day in the hills while steam gently rises from my camping stove. Tired from our day’s walking, my dog Griff is curled up alongside me enjoying the downy comfort of my sleeping bag. I take a sip from my cup, warming my insides with the little drop of single malt I’ve brought with me.

Related: Best Two Person Tents

As often tends to be the case in these situations, especially when I’ve made a conscious effort to not look at my phone for the past few hours, I’m in a contemplative mood, thinking about how, in this day and age, we can’t take things like this for granted. Especially when, as recent events have proven, it can be snatched away so quickly.

A Right to Roam

My location: Great Mis Tor, Dartmoor National Park. I’m set up just below the gigantic lump of granite on its summit, the frozen-in-time layers of molten magma serving as an effective barrier for me against the gusting winds. Similar outcrops are silhouetted on the horizon in every direction I look and I might just be able to see two coastlines – one to the south and one to the north – though I can’t be certain on account of the haziness on this early spring evening.

The view from Great Mis Tor

I’ve slept out on many hillsides in England and Wales over the years and each time it has always come with just a little ounce of trepidation. Choosing a spot often involves some tricky balances between ensuring I’m on sheltered, flat and well-draining ground and that I’m in a place where I’m unlikely to encounter a potentially aggrieved landowner. In fact, I can think of many nights out where I’ve slept in uncomfortable spots to ensure I can sleep totally unseen. So, it felt strangely novel setting up my tent on this high spot in Dartmoor with no sense of edginess, knowing that I’m perfectly entitled to be here. And that’s all thanks to the right of common access that has existed uniquely in this part of England for hundreds of years, and that was enshrined in law with the Dartmoor Commons Act in 1985.

 

“This area of England has something about it that has made it a place of great significance…”

2023 showed in equal measure how precious and precarious this right is when a High Court ruling appeared to remove the legal right to wild camp on the moor altogether following a challenge brought by a local landowner. The backlash from walkers, climbers and campaign groups was immediate, with thousands rallying in defence of what many saw as one of the last meaningful freedoms remaining in the English countryside.

This extraordinary coming together of campaigners eventually restored the right to backpack camp in designated areas, but the episode served as a stark reminder that access to nature in England is far from guaranteed.

Sacred Sites

Woken by a sloppy lick to the face from Griff, I pull myself out of the tent, brew some coffee to bring me to my senses, then break camp. Keeping with the principles of leave no trace, I ensure I’m off and out early, just after daybreak, and I check to ensure I’ve left absolutely nothing behind but the vague imprint of a 5-foot-10 Welshman.

There’s just one place I want to see before I return to my car and that’s the Bronze Age settlement and huge complex of ritual sites at Merrivale, which also includes three long stone rows. One of these rows stretches as far as 260m, with the side-by-side stones tracing an arrow-straight line across the moor.

The reason for these stones and the way they’re assembled is unexplained. Did they form some kind of processional avenue? Or is there some kind of astrological alignment? Perhaps we’ll never fully understand their purpose.

What’s certainly clear, however, is that this area of England has something about it that has made it a place of great significance, from thousands of years ago and right to this day.

Camping on Dartmoor

The Dartmoor National Park website provides useful information for outdoor enthusiasts interested in camping in the area. This includes a map of the wild camping exclusion zones, information to prevent you from getting caught up in the middle of the regular military training operations that take place and advice on how to leave no trace.

Kit List

I was able to put MSR’s brand new version of their best-selling Hubba Hubba tent to the test during this trip. Roomy enough for two people but also light enough to serve nicely for solo trips, it’s a handy backpacking tent with lots of useful details. Watch the video below for my run through.

 

 

And some of the other items I used…

Where to Buy

MSR Hubba Hubba LT 2P

Our tester’s verdict: “A good, very light option for summer thru-hikes where you’re expecting to be in sheltered camp spots most nights. Go for the HD version if you need something for unpredictable weather (but that’s also still light).

★★★★

Where to Buy

Rab Syclon XP 40

Our tester’s verdict: “Supremely light but with enough space for lightweight backpacking set ups. It also has high levels of ventilation while still providing a very stable carry.”

★★★★½

Where to Buy

MSR Pocket Rocket DLX

Our editor’s verdict: “Exceptionally light and packable and that’s not at the expense of performance either. Small but very mighty – as the name suggests!”

Where to Buy

Therm-a-rest Prolite Apex

Our editor’s verdict: “Very comfortable with lots of cushioning and elevation off the ground. Warmth enough for three-season camps. I love the fact it self-inflates too.”

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