Unlike most outdoor garments, the BioSmock also has no components such as zippers – since Finisterre believes there are no satisfactory eco-friendly biodegradable zippers in existence (or at least, none that would break down as quickly as the rest of the smock). That’s why the placket and kangaroo front pocket use press studs, again made from that nifty PLA stuff.

The product will also be protected in transit and storage by Finisterre + Aquapak’s ‘Leave No Trace’ water soluble, compostable and recyclable packaging. The swing tags attached to the Biosmock will also be FSC certified and tied by cotton thread instead of plastic.

Construction and Performance

This is a top that works as a midlayer or shell in cold and windy weather, and it will also fend off light drizzle. Given Finisterre’s surf background, we can see this becoming a favourite among surfers, swimmers and other water babies, but conceivably you could also take it hiking, climbing and camping too. The minimalist style also makes it an attractive bit of apparel for daily wear too. Expect to see it on the streets of Shoreditch…

Verdict

This jacket is a remarkable example of what is possible if brands decide to create genuinely sustainable products right from the get-go. But more than that, it also shows a brand thinking about what happens to their products after the consumer is finished with them. That end-of-life thinking is perhaps the real innovation here, and the result is a warm and functional smock that is not only windproof and water-repellent, but will also break down when discarded (hopefully, years into the future) to leave virtually zero trace in the natural environment. We’re not suggesting you chuck it in the sea, but the point is, you could.

“If Haglöfs’ Nordic Expedition jacket had not been developed this year this top might well have won the big prize from ISPO. The only British designed garment to win a Gold Outstanding Award is part of the range from the Cornish brand best known for their cold weather surfing roots. In terms of true design this product is specific & damn good. Having wool wadding means an insulation that is best recognised for being very permeable & never smelling. Being an over-the-head design demonstrates how it will adapt to almost every condition so that (like a jumper) you put it on at the start of the day & don’t need to take it off. By not having a full length front zip there is greater air-circulation, plus a large kangaroo front pouch.

“You can never write too much positive about this brand…”

“Finisterre are well known for their attention to the challenges of the sea, so this has been created from fabrics to best avoid adding to the problem of textile laundry wash-offs. The woven shell is the first outing of PrimaLoft BIO yarn which will compost down relatively quickly if left in the right damp, dark & muddy conditions (which includes the ocean) – but it’s also woven so tightly that it offers a windproof shell that sheds most rainfall. The lining is a wool compound which extends the range of the shell’s performance. It is easy to over-design an active insulation layer with too many features, but it takes a clear vision to not have too many extra options that just add bulk when used as part of a layering system: imagine your favourite mid-layer, but done excellently. Remember wool was what Mallory & Irvine wore on the 1924 Everest attempt, it was specified on the kit list of Shackleton, & it’s anti-bacterial qualities are credited as keeping more people alive during the muddy trench fighting of WW1 than any other factor.

“The industry shunned it when fleece became popular, but has completely reassessed it once the comfort of Merino became obvious two decades ago – this wadding is an updated form of the keratin product, with PLA added to improve the product durability.

“You can never write too much positive about this brand – they (like Patagonia) are one of the few B Corps companies.”