“There’s a fish there,” our guide Tommy said quietly to us after suddenly coming to a stop on the trail. A slight ripple showed on the surface of the lake. “Let’s stop for a second – I’m going to try and get it,”. With a quick flick of the wrist, he cast his line into the narrow creek. It took just three seconds before he was hauling his rod backwards, its carbon shaft arching towards the sky. ‘Yes, I’ve got it – it’s a big one,” he told us excitedly.
Less than an hour later, we were sat in a clearing within a wide mountain wilderness as the orange flesh of the brown trout he had so simply plucked out of the water cooked away over a camping stove in a deep pool of butter.
This turned out to be one of many unique experiences we gained up on the mountain plateau of Fulufjället National Park. Over the course of just two days here we slept in remote cabins at nearly 1000 metres, we took saunas followed by ice cold swims in a still lake, we visited ‘the world’s oldest tree’ and Sweden’s highest waterfall too. I’ve travelled around a lot of Sweden and while I’ve loved almost every part I’ve been to, this national park really did leave an impression on me. If you’re looking for a wild adventure that can be had over the course of just a long weekend, this, I’d say, should be pretty high on your list.
Where is Fulufjället National Park
Fulufjället is located on Sweden’s border with Norway, occupying a section of the northwestern corner of Dalarna, a large county that stretches right across central Sweden from the Norwegian border over to the east of the country.
The Park In a Nutshell
Fulufjället National Park is a wild and untouched nature area spread across the 1,044m mountain it takes its name from. This mountain rises in the landscape as a plateau that has steep sides and a broad flat top. No reindeer graze here, so the mountain heath is covered with a thick carpet of lichen. On the lower slopes ancient trees, waterfalls and boulder fields give the park a real alpine feel.
In summer, it’s green and quite verdant, with a thick blanket of cloudberry bushes coating the landscape, paddle-able lakes and gurgling brooks everywhere. At this time of year, many hikers pass through each day on their way along the Southern Kungsleden, a 360km trail that has its southern terminus just south of the national park.
When winter rolls around, expect deep, deep snow and hard frozen lakes. You’ll also need either snowshoes, cross country skis or a snowmobile to get around at this time.
Our Hiking Itinerary
Our trip to Fulufjället started at Naturum Visitor Centre where we met with our guide Tommy Lönnebake. From there he led us for around 3km up to the remote mountain station of Rösjöstugorna which he has been running for the last few years.
There are numerous cabins here and two luxury tents (ecoadventure.se) and it’s situated right in the middle of the mountain plateau where there are incredible views across a lake towards distant mountains. We spent two nights here, one in a cabin and the other in one of the tents.