Zadar is Croatia’s oldest inhabited (but oddly undersung) city, and while Dubrovnik may have Game of Thrones and Split may be Croatia’s capital of cuisine, the Zadar region is a hiking haven, with incredible treks in epic mountains, along the coast or around islands to choose from thanks to the Adriatic Sea on the city’s western side and the Velebit mountains to the east.
The jagged Velebit massif makes a stunning backdrop to the city, with Zadar’s famed sunsets turning their grey limestone peaks a soft pink every evening. Velebit means ‘huge’ or ‘magnificent’ in Croatian, and these peaks look irresistibly untamed on the map – a 145-kilometre-long range criss-crossed by hiking paths and dotted with remote refuges. Paklenica National Park is the hiker’s paradise to head for, with trails to tempt all levels from short walks to multi-day adventures. For those seeking a test of endurance, the climb to Vaganski Vrh, the highest peak in the Velebit range, rewards with panoramic views across to the Adriatic Sea.