As a National Park, it is reasonably long. The southern edge lies along the Afon Dyfi, where the sparsely populated hills of mid-Wales rise up in waves to the great rearing breaker of Cadair Idris. In the north, the largest area of high land in the country, the Carneddau, a great plateau in the sky, drops finally into the Afon Conwy.

Walking The Southern Section

The overall route was immediately apparent, and seemed so obvious I wondered why no one had thought of it before. It would start at Machynlleth on the southern border, and make its way north to finish in Conwy, nicely positioned on the north-eastern tip. Though sometimes several days were spent on one section, finding the best path, avoiding locked gates, thrashing through bracken and hopping over rivers, the line eventually formed.

From Machynlleth, the ancient capital of Wales under Owain Glyndŵr, the trail heads north, passing the slate villages of Corris and Aberllefenni via the dark green blanket of the Dyfi forest before Cadair Idris appears ahead and the trail drops down into Dolgellau, home of Welsh gold. From here, the route leads along the Afon Mawddach and through Coed y Brenin to reach Trawsfynydd Reservoir between two ancient fastnesses, the oldest rocks in Snowdonia in the Rhinogydd Mountains, and the great moor of the Migneint, reputedly the centre of the ice cap during the last ice age.

“These mountains were a hideaway or a scourge, a sanctuary or a menace, depending on your side in numberless conflicts going back to the Iron Age and beyond”

Beyond Trawsfynydd it descends into the Vale of Ffestiniog giving a glimpse of the sea and the old harbour of Porthmadog. Along hillsides and past the pointed summit of Cnicht it reaches the halfway point of Beddgelert via the beautiful gorge of the Pass of Aberglaslyn.

Ready to Walk It?

The Snowdonia Way is un-waymarked, something I’m happy with for now as I prefer it as an idea, open to change. My advice for those considering it is to take your time so you can explore the place properly. Linger on the hills, watch the sunset, look for wildlife, and learn some Welsh. Each stage of the route also has ‘high level’ alternatives for those who want to reach summits along the way.

The great benefit of the Snowdonia Way, beyond the obvious attraction of the natural beauty of Snowdonia, is the accessibility. The beginning and end have train stations, buses connect all towns and villages, the sections finish somewhere with accommodation every night, and you’ll nearly always have a choice of everything from hotels to camping. The only real difficulty is deciding how many pubs and cafés to visit along the way.

The Breakdown

• Distance: 97 miles / 156km
• Total ascent: 5,009m / 16,434ft
• Suggested walking time: 6 to 9 days
• Navigation: The route isn’t waymarked on the ground; so it’s recommended to get the guidebook, complete with route description, maps, and lots of interesting local information.

If you’ve walked a long-distance trail and would like to write about it for our Big Backpack series, send a quick proposal to our editor at [email protected]