Black Diamond First Light Hoody – The Stuffing

The First Light uses a version of the market-leading PrimaLoft synthetic fill called PrimaLoft Silver Insulation Active. Like normal PrimaLoft, it’s very water-resistant and retains a claimed 91% of warmth even when wet.

What makes it different to bog standard PrimaLoft is that it doesn’t escape as easily through the fabric of the jacket, which in turn means brands can use more breathable fabrics that aren’t 100% windproof which in turn makes the whole garment much better for use on the hoof, which is exactly what BD has done here.

Black Diamond First Light Hoody – Performance

We picked up a First Light Hoody from BD back at the 2016 ISPO show in February, so we’ve had it for a while. It’s an interesting jacket, but quite specialised in use. It not super light at just under 500g, but packs down to a ball around the size of a melon, complete with a clip-loop.

The fit is lovely and close, very definitely not traditional US-style barrel cut, which limits its market slightly, but we like it a lot. Unlike conventional insulated jackets, the light, soft-feeling, but tough Schoeller face fabric – also bluesign approved – isn’t 100% windproof, but that means you can use the First Light on the move in cold conditions without going into steaming kettle mode.

Great for mountaineering outings and stop / go climbing missions. It’s not super warm by any means, but that works for us too, on the move at least. It’s also breathable enough to use as a mid-layer under a waterproof shell if conditions really crap out on you.

Hoods You Lose

All that’s good, but a couple of tweaks would make for a jacket that’s both more all-round versatile and also more functional for the technical user it’s aimed at. First, the hood is designed to work with a climbing helmet, which it does nicely. However over a bare head, it’s voluminous and floppy and in seriously windy conditions, just blows off.

‘Yes, it’s a technical mountaineering piece, but climbers don’t wear helmets all the time’

Yes, it’s a technical mountaineering piece, but climbers don’t wear helmets all the time and it also limits the all-round versatility of the jacket.

Why not add adjustability and allow folk to use it for more general use as well as with a helmet for technical climbing? Ot maybe just use an under-helmet hood.

Second, the neat hand-warmer pockets sit directly under a pack-belt or harness, which makes them superfluous actually on the route and potentially during walk-ins. Napoleon-style chest pockets would be more versatile in our experience.