In every discipline of climbing, shoes play a crucial part in performance. This is especially the case in bouldering, where the careful placement of each toe and heel and the execution of each smear or edge can make or break success.
As bouldering typically demands a more gymnastic, low-percentage style of climbing, it calls for some technically impressive footwear. The best shoes for bouldering are designed for climbing at your limit, so they have to fit and perform ‘just so’.
Related: How To Choose A Pair Of Climbing Shoes
Most climbers find that they cycle through the many different brands and models of climbing shoes over their climbing life. It seems par for the course for climbers to have a whole arsenal of shoes for varied terrain and styles of climbing and the best way to find out if a shoe is right for you is to give it a spin on the rocks and find out.
Of course, climbing shoes can be expensive additions to your climbing kit, so we can give some assurances that the models on this list are a great starting point.
As each climbing shoe will have specific strengths and drawbacks, foot size and shape varies wildly from person to person and boulder problems demand different styles of shoe for maximum performance, it’s practically impossible to take a one-size fits all approach to picking the best shoe for bouldering, but this this article should have helped to clear up which climbing shoe might be a good starting point for you and your next addition.
We would always recommend trying before you buy. We’d suggest you test out a shortlist of pairs across a variety of brands to really get a feel for which features work best for you. Many climbing gyms have a shop where you can try on a couple of different models – you might even be able to take them for a test run on the wall.
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The Best Bouldering Shoes | Our Favourites
In a competitive market, it can be tricky to figure out which model of bouldering shoe is the right one to go for. To help you find the best option for you, we’ve compiled a list of our favourite climbing shoe models on the market in 2024.
- Scarpa Mago
- Scarpa Drago
- La Sportiva Skwama
- EB Black Opium
- 5:10 Moccasyms
- Scarpa Instinct VS
- Black Diamond Momentum
- Ocun Bullit
Scarpa Mago
Price: £150
Best for: Precision
Newly updated for 2022, the Scarpa Mago has refined the technology of previous Mago models, combining Scarpa’s industry-leading eye for design with improved comfort features and a full lace-up closure. Designed for high performance on small footholds, the Mago offers a functional, yet surprisingly comfortable option for sessions where footwork is foremost.
The Mago’s X-Tension rand construction packs a punch for those wishing to keep things versatile, offering impressive support without compromising flexibility and feedback through the midsole. The Mago’s asymmetrical, downturned profile and high-angled toe box force pressure through the toes for optimal edging and smearing capability, with Scarpa’s Toe Power Support technology doubling down on precision.
The redesigned synthetic upper brings together elasticated microfibre panels and a laced closure, ensuring the best comfort rating of the Mago model yet. Scarpa has stuck with the well-trusted Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber for the Mago sole, known for its performance on steeper terrain so we opted to test the Magos out on the small, technical holds of the 40 degree training board.
The Mago felt precise and trustworthy on steep terrain, owing to their impressively flexible midsole. For such an aggressively shaped shoe, they did also display a surprising level of versatility on more vertical terrain. We’d just as happily break out the flexible toe of the Mago to teeter up slabs and along volumes as we would on the overhang.
Full Specifications
Closure: full lace-up / fit: performance fit / downturn: moderate / environment: indoor, outdoor / upper: synthetic, micro fibre and alcantara / rubber: Vibram XS Grip2 3.5mm.
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