Artilect Flat Iron 185 Baselayer | Review - Outdoors Magic

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Mid and Base Layers

Artilect Flat Iron 185 Baselayer | Review

A warm and comfy baselayer with an intriguing core ingredient

Merino wool possesses a lot of virtues that make it excellent for outdoor pursuits. It’s comfortable against the skin, it provides warmth in the cold and can also keep you cool when it’s hot, its naturally fire resistant (useful around the campfire) and, perhaps best of all, it’s anti-microbial, meaning odours don’t build up in it anywhere near as fast as they do in synthetics or cotton clothing. It’s also great from a sustainability perspective, being a natural, renewable substance that biodegrades over time.

Here at Outdoors Magic, we often praise the likes of Icebreaker and Smartwool – two of the main Merino wool focussed outdoor brands – for their sustainability credentials. But, there’s a new kid on the block that claims to create products with an even lower carbon footprint, and their name is Nuyarn. 

OM editor Will using the Artilect Flat Iron on a campout. Photos: Dave Macfarlane

Based out of New Zealand, Nuyarn claims to have come up with a much more efficient way of creating Merino yarns, one that requires 30% less materials and that uses uses 73% less energy compared to the common methods. The company also claims that the product is more effective and also far more durable and long lasting. In fact, it purports that for every Nuyarn garment you buy, you would need to buy nine conventionally produced equivalents in order to equal its lifespan (nuyarn.com).

The Construction

So what’s different? Well, Nuyarn say that the clincher is in the fact that their yarns are spun using a twist-free technique. Most Merino garment manufacturers, including Icebreaker and Smartwool, will often use a traditional technique called ring spinning where the yarns are tightly twisted like a rope and this, Nuyarn claim, makes it difficult for them to absorb moisture and to also let moisture go once it’s been absorbed. Nuyarn instead “drafts” its wool fibres loosely along a filament, resulting in two ply yarns.

The filament involved here is currently made from virgin synthetics, but the company says that it does not require elastane, Lycra or Spandex in its yarns to make them stretchy and that they have a mechanical stretch that will last for the entire lifetime of the garment – that’s thanks both to its twist-free yarns and the fact they’re also crafted into two layers.

OK that’s a lot of information – admittedly, all gained from the Nuyarn website. What about the actual performance then?

I tried the material for the first time in the form of the Flat Iron 185 baselayer from Artilect and what I would say first of all is that it felt very comfortable and warm to wear. It didn’t feel itchy and it really did feel very stretchy and body hugging, which was very surprising given the absence of any elastane (or a similar type of ingredient). The material was thicker than most Merino garments I’ve worn and it did feel quite heavy but I liked the articulation and the flatlocked seams too.

In one specific test, I stuck the Artilect baselayer in a wash with my Patagonia Polartec Power Grid baselayer and with a Smartwool baselayer and then I hung all three garments up to dry together. The Patagonia baselayer, being fully synthetic, was by far the fastest to dry. Second? That was the Smartwool. The Artilect baselayer came last.

In fairness to Artilect, the Smartwool baselayer was a bit thicker and heavier, but still, I was left a little bit underwhelmed, especially given Nuyarn’s claims. It was a very basic test and we’ll have to think of some way to test them out with more of a level playing field. Watch this space on that. All credit to Nuyarn for creating something that’s very warm and comfortable though, and for focussing on lifespan and durability too.

With less resource usage, less energy, wool that’s verified to be from animals that are looked after – and some interesting sustainability ambitions going forward (which include replacing the filament they use with recycled or biodegradable materials), it’s hard to not admire what Nuyarn are doing and I think they’ll be a company to watch going forward.

Pros: Warm and comfortable against the skin, no niggles, very stretchy, responsibly sourced wool
Cons: Heavy, doesn’t break new ground with drying time

Artilect Flat Iron 185

Selected for our Greener Gear Guide, sponsored by Nikwax
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